Brian and Sue Lehmann of St. Wenceslaus Parish in Iowa City take a break during a trip to London, England.
By Brian and Sue Lehmann
Guest Column
Sue Lehmann stands in front of Westminster Cathedral in London.
For many Catholics, London is known for its royal landmarks and rich history. Yet beneath these familiar attractions lies another story — one shaped by faith, sacrifice and perseverance. During a recent two-week, self-guided pilgrimage, we set out to discover Catholic London, traveling across the city on foot, by bus, and on the Underground. What we encountered was not only history, but a vibrant, living faith.
A highlight of our pilgrimage was Westminster Cathedral, the mother church of Catholics in England and Wales. Its distinctive Byzantine design and towering campanile make it one of London’s great sacred spaces. Attending Solemn Mass there was a deeply moving experience. The beauty of the liturgy, the reverence of the congregation, and the richness of sacred music drew us into prayer. Surrounded by worshippers from around the world, we were reminded of the universality of the Church and our connection to Catholics everywhere, including at home in the Diocese of Davenport.
Our travels led us to a variety of parish churches, each offering a unique glimpse into Catholic life. At the Church of the Immaculate Conception, (Farm Street Church) we encountered the Jesuit tradition, with its emphasis on thoughtful preaching. In busy Soho, St. Patrick’s Church offered a quiet refuge, where the noise of the city gave way to silence and prayer.
A visit to St. Mary’s in Hampstead required a journey on the Tube and a walk through a peaceful neighborhood. This experience reminded us that a pilgrimage is not only about the destination, but also about the journey itself — finding moments of grace along ordinary paths.
One of the most distinctive experiences came at Our Lady of the Assumption and St. Gregory on Warwick Street, home to the Personal Ordinariate of Our Lady of Walsingham. There we encountered a form of Catholic worship that preserves elements of England’s Anglican heritage while remaining fully Catholic. It was a beautiful example of unity within the Church.
We were also struck by the beauty of St. James’ Church, Spanish Place, which reflects the strength of the Catholic revival in 19th-century England. At St. Etheldreda’s in Holborn, dating from the 13th century, we found a rare connection to England’s Catholic past. Hidden among modern buildings, it offered a quiet reminder of the faith that endured through centuries of change.
Our visit to St. Edward the Confessor in Golders Green highlighted the importance of parish life. While less well known, it demonstrated how the faith continues to thrive in local communities.
No pilgrimage to Catholic London would be complete without a visit to the Brompton Oratory. Known for its reverent liturgy and beautiful music, it remains a spiritual home for many. Equally moving was our visit to Tyburn Tree, near Marble Arch, where many Catholic martyrs were executed during the Reformation. Reflecting on their witness gave us a deeper appreciation for the cost of religious freedom and the courage of those who remained faithful.
Throughout our journey, we saw how the story of Catholicism in England is one of endurance and renewal. From the witness of the martyrs to the vitality of today’s parishes, each place we visited contributed to that story.
Travel itself became part of the pilgrimage. Navigating the city by public transportation and walking from church to church allowed us to experience London not just as tourists, but as pilgrims. Along the way, we carried a spirit of prayer into the rhythms of daily life around us.
We were especially struck by the diversity of the congregations we encountered. In church after church, people from many nations gathered in worship. This diversity reflected the universal nature of the Church and its ability to unite people across cultures.
As we returned home to Iowa, we carried with us a renewed appreciation forthe Church’s history and its living presence today. Our pilgrimage to Catholic London was not simply a visit to historic sites, but an encounter with a faith that continues to inspire and endure.
(Brian and Sue Lehmann are parishioners at St. Wenceslaus Parish in Iowa City.)
